What is a Non-Releasable
A Non-Releasable (NR) squirrel is an animal that cannot be released to due serious injury, deformity, albinism, too many years in captivity or other medical condition that makes survival in the wild unlikely. We do not refer to them as “pet” squirrels, they are termed Captives or Non-Releasables (NR for short). The person keeping the squirrel is not an owner, they are called the handler or holder. A captive squirrel is not a pet and cannot be made to conform to your idea of how an animal companion should behave. If you are looking for a cuddly pet rodent consider a Chinchilla. With that said if you are up to the challenge of being clawed, bitten, urinated on and dealing with unlimited squirrel energy then “may the force be with you”. After years of work and earning trust many of my (Florida legal) squirrels do snuggle, enjoy petting, back rubs and belly rubs. This is usually a late evening event after the daytime squirrel energy is spent. This is not “forced domestication” but complete and total earned trust by a wild squirrel that is normally fearful of all other animals.
If you decide to take on the serious personal and financial commitment of caring for an NR squirrel, reading and following ALL the protocol presented here is essential or the squirrel will not live a healthy and happy life. Note: All NR squirrels shown in photos are lawfully held in the State of South Carolina by Admin (see laws page).
If you hold a non-releasable squirrel we highly recommend contacting us for questions and resources 540-750-5088
This video by Happy Bear Acres illustrates why releasable squirrels do not make good pets. A true NR (Non-Releasable) is no exception and care for an NR requires a high level of personal commitment. If you already have a captive squirrel you know the deal, if not watch the video.
Ethics of Keeping Squirrels in Captivity
We do not advocate for keeping healthy, releasable captive (pet) squirrels. There are some situations where injury, deformity, disability or inability to adapt to release after rehab render a squirrel non releasable. A squirrel with injuries that cannot be healed using conventional veterinary medicine resulting in obvious long term pain as determined by a vet should be euthanized. Examples are crushed pelvis, organ injuries and broken backs. We know of many captive squirrels that are paralyzed due to nerve swelling (contusions), amputees, true albinos, blind or deformed that are pain free and perfectly happy living indoors with disability under a caring and knowledgeable holder. Gray, Red and Fox Squirrels are regulated in all states mainly because of their game (furbearer) status. People legally hold flying squirrels, Chinchillas, Prairie Dogs and a variety of exotic wildlife from around the world and that is no more or less ethical. Wildlife of any kind should be in it’s native habitat. With that said there are always exceptions and as long as the animal is properly cared for and happy it is not up others to make judgements unless the holder is obviously not capable. Such persons should be more concerned with sport hunting that allows for shooting squirrels out of the trees for fun than someone properly and humanely holding a content disabled squirrel. There are usually provisions in state law for captive/educational permits but this mainly applies to rehabbers and wildlife centers. Our law section offers guidance in this area. We neither endorse nor denounce captive holding, we simply provide resources for proper care so those that hold captive NR’s provide their squirrel the best possible life. If you’ve had your captive squirrel one year or more you are obligated to keep it. To release a bonded squirrel with no skills into a hostile environment is cruel and inhumane. This is why we tell people to surrender baby squirrels to rehabilitators so they can be raised for release.
In the 1800’s squirrels were popular as pets as shown in this tintype. That tradition continues today with Kelly Foxton and world famous Sugar Bush Squirrel! We all remember “Uncle Billy’s” pet squirrel comforting him on it’s a Wonderful Life.
CAPTIVE SQUIRREL CARE
Housing, Toys and Enrichment
Your squirrel needs adequate space to play and be a squirrel. For housing we use double Critter Nation cages (not Ferret Nation) from Midwest Homes for Pets with the pass through open to allow the squirrel to access both levels. Make sure the doors click shut every time and that delicate squirrel hands are not near the “pinch points” in the doors before closing. A Hammock or canvas cube / wood nestbox must be hung in the cage near the top of the upper level. https://www.henryspets.com/honeycomb-hammock/
Small FRESH tree branches should be in all cages for chewing. Un-sprayed Apple, Maple or Oak branches are best and should be scrubbed clean with baking soda, rinsed and allowed to dry. Do not use the colored wood chews or calcium gnawing pieces from Petco/Petsmart as these are proven to contain highly toxic unregulated dyes like cobalt & red dye #2 from China. I also include a smooth cleaned river rock at the bottom for teeth wear. Source all your enrichment supplies from the natural environment as much as possible. Avoid all plastics and any product with a “Made in China” label especially something that may be ingested. Use ceramic food dishes, not plastic ones.
A cage is not a prison. In the wild squirrels spend a lot of time in their Drey’s (Nests) sleeping at night, afternoons and in torpor for days at a time in the deep winter. A cage with a nest box or bag represents security but your squirrel must have daily out-of-cage time (indoors) and human interaction or you will have a wild squirrel that just exists in a cage. That is inhumane and cruel. All playtime out of the cage must be closely supervised. Squirrels will chew on everything and this is not a habit that can be changed, it’s an instinct. The safest squirrel play room is an empty one with just climbing perches, ropes, and squirrel safe toys. All electrical cords for lamps etc must be removed or your squirrel will be electrocuted when it bites into a cord. Your squirrel will chew on everything in it’s path so be vigilant and supervise at all times. Do not allow a squirrel to run in a room with a hot wood stove. Squirrels teeth grow continuously at a rate of approx 6″ per year. Gnawing is an exploratory action as well as to keep teeth worn down. We have heard of captive squirrels eating caustic batteries and escaping through chewed window screens. Does this sound like a lot of work? Remember you are bringing an animal into your home that retains all it wild instincts.
Metal vertical wheels designed for Chinchillas can also be utilized for squirrels but not all squirrels will use one. They mount on the sturdy Critter Nation bars but do not work well on a flimsy galvanized wire cage. John Hopewell made the best wheel on the market but he is no longer producing them. Exotic Nutrition makes a similar wheel but I have not tried it. Do not use any other wheel other than this specific design or foot/tail injuries will result. Wheels must be 16″ or larger to prevent spinal damage. Exotic Nutrition wheel: https://www.etsy.com/listing/597763321/pandamonium-pets-xtra-soundless-spinner?ref=shop_home_feat_1&bes=1
Original 16″ Hopewell Wheel
If your home has aggressive large dogs, roaming cats, rambunctious young children or is cluttered, dirty, unsafe then a non-releasable squirrel is not for you.
NOT a good squirrel home A great squirrel home!
Another great cage is a large California Cage for birds. It will say Cal-Cage on the tray. This cage is well made and the powder coating is free of toxins. They are hard to find but can be had with diligence since Cal-Cage is no longer in business.
Congratulations to “Brittany” for the best indoor squirrel habitat we have ever seen!
Critter Nation Cage by Midwest Homes for Pets – single level is good for rehab/ juveniles and double for captive adults. You can also customize by putting 2 doubles together to make a quad. (Quad credit to the Rat Forum)
Bass Equipment makes stainless bottom replacement pans for Critter Nation cages (same size as Ferret Nation). We do not recommend keeping the supplied shelves/ramps in the cage or the plastic pans. You can order stainless pans listed on the Bass page that are safe for squirrels.
Critter Nation Cage Pans > 
Handling
If you cannot devote the time to play with and supervise your squirrel out-of-cage then a squirrel is not for you. You cannot let your squirrel dominate you and both males and females exhibit dominance and territorial behavior. Starting when your squirrel is young if the squirrel bites (don’t confuse with nibbles/grooming/play) gently flip the squirrel on it’s back while holding it and give it a firm “no”. Being on the back is submissive and the squirrel will learn (hopefully) that you are the alpha. Squirrels don’t learn by fear, punishment or admonishment. You have to understand a squirrels behavior/communication and work with it. Roughhousing and hand play may result in hard play biting but this is not aggression. You will know a deliberate attack when the squirrels jumps on you and bites hard. The usual cause is food aggression but many squirrels are just not happy in captivity and will let you know, others are calm and sweet. If you have behavioral problems please call us and we will help you with a solution.
A squirrels nails are very sharp to allow for gripping when climbing trees and they can cause serious pain when leaping onto you or running around your person like a tree. Sometimes a squirrel will bat you with it’s front claws like a cat but the majority of the time scratches are from climbing/landing, not aggression. I do not trim my squirrels nails and have a tolerance for their claws, other people may not. Wear a heavy long sleeve shirt or sweat shirt to protect your arms and back. You must also wear protective glasses. I do not recommend trimming nails but if you do make sure you only clip the very tips and just the white part or the nail will bleed. If your squirrel does not allow trimming this can be accomplished with the squirrel inside the cage. One person holds a grape for distraction nibbling while the other carefully nips the very tips protruding through the bars with a sharp cuticle nipper.
Captive holder bonding with trusting Florida squirrel “Kami”
This is a bonding scarf. We don’t recommend the chew toys, snacks or food from Exotic Nutrition, but there are some good products. Contact us for advice before purchasing other products from this site. If you wear this you have to be VERY mindful of not bumping into anything or falling as you may injure or kill your squirrel. Do not wear outside! LINK: Bonding Scarf (exoticnutrition.com)
Once your squirrel gets used to you, and this may take many months of gaining trust, your squirrel may allow you to groom it. This is usually a reciprocal grooming where you rub it’s ears, back, and under the chin and your squirrel returns the favor by nibbling and licking your hand.
Squirrels cannot see very well right in front of their nose so extending a finger may cause a bite response. A squirrels bite force is around 7000 & possibly up to 22,000 PSI (pounds per square inch) and they can easily bite through a finger bone, a Grizzly is a mere 1,200 PSI & an alligator 2,400 PSI! Always make sure your squirrel sees you from it’s side and speak calmly and softly to your squirrel before picking it up. Use the back of your hand and allow the squirrel to sniff you. Never pick up your squirrel with the smell of food on your hands or while holding nuts or fruits. Show an open palm and let the squirrel sniff and see there is no food. Always move slowly until your squirrel knows it’s you. Remember once a favorite food is introduced your squirrel is immediately defensive of that food. Squirrels literally bite the hands that feed them. Once the food is gone the squirrel is back to it’s usual behavior. Also strong smells like hair dye, perfume, cologne, fingernail polish etc can upset your squirrel.
Result of not reading squirrel language
Communication
Your squirrel will tell you a lot if you learn to read it’s language. Teeth chatter or clicking is an aggressive signal and usually a precursor to a bite. Heed this warning. Ear pinning (ears flat and back) is a sign of fear. Light tail twitching indicates caution while rapid tail flagging accompanied by Kuk’s (short vocalizations) indicates a ground based predator is nearby. Kuk’s followed by Quaa’s (long vocalizations) means there is still danger but it’s moving off. In captivity any strange noise can cause these alerts. Kuks by themselves with a captive is a general alarm and startling your squirrel or a strange noise can set this off. Moans (sounds like a longer, quieter, whistle-like call) without tail flagging is associated with Aerial predators like hawks. Being narrow in frequency moans are more difficult to localize by predators. Squirrels also make a purring or buzzing sound called muk-muk. This is an affection sound and a greeting.
Squirrels have EXCELLENT Dichromatic vision but cannot see red as you and I can and greens are more subdued. The upper part of the split photo shows how a squirrel sees, and the bottom half is how you see a squirrel.
Cleaning
A squirrel is a VERY clean animal by nature and does not like a dirty environment. We clean all our squirrels habitat daily and that is part of the responsibility of holding a captive squirrel. The nest box or hammock should be cleaned out of cached foods only while the squirrel is out of the cage. Unused clean rodent blocks should be returned after cleaning and nut treats that are cached should be removed and not allowed to accumulate. “Raiding” a squirrels nest (territory) while the squirrel is in the cage is a violation and you will be bitten. Squirrels are food defensive. If you use the recommended Critter Nation style cage it has a lower tray you can line with newspaper. You can use fleece or soft “Orchard Grass” on the floor of either or both levels to give the squirrel a natural and soft under-footing but this must be changed daily. We do not recommend “Care Fresh” bedding as this can get lodged in the squirrel’s intestine if swallowed. Natural cotton based cloths or heavy cotton canvas for cubes and hammocks are much better. If you know someone who can sew it’s better to make one out of canvas duck.
Photo courtesy of: http://www.auntiemmscustomboutique.com/product-gallery.html
Feeding
This section deals with captive older squirrels that are weaned – baby squirrel feeding is covered under the “Basic Care” page. Captive squirrels MUST learn to eat formulated rodent blocks, I can’t stress this enough! Non-perishable blocks must be available at all times on demand. We keep a dish of Teklad 2014 non-perishable blocks in the cage at all times and feed 2 Henry’s Adult blocks daily as a supplement and to vary the diet. Henry’s adult blocks are perishable due to the fresh quality ingredients and must be kept frozen until fed. Links to purchase are provided by clicking the Henrys / Teklad logos below. You can also use Mazuri 5563 Rat & Mouse block in a pinch when Henry’s or Teklad are not available.
A squirrel that has been spoiled on a nut and seed diet is not easily persuaded to switch it’s diet to bland blocks. These blocks contain all the essential ingredients necessary to keep your squirrel healthy and prevent Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) which is explained in detail on the Henry’s page under “MBD” on the top banner. MBD is a horrific and painful death so you have to take a no nonsense approach to transitioning your captive squirrel over to block – it’s life depends on it. Cold turkey is the best approach. If you have been feeding the wrong diet immediately remove all other foods and only feed blocks until the squirrel starts eating them. You squirrel will not starve and will eventually eat the blocks. For extremely picky eater you can make “Boo Balls” out of ground up blocks: https://squirrelrefuge.org/booballrecipe.html
Once your squirrel is eating block add in ingredients from the Henry’s Healthy (supplemental) Diet to add additional nutrients and variety. We call this the “triangle” as you will see why when you click the Henry’s link below. Use this diet in addition to blocks since blocks are ALWAYS their base diet throughout their life. Wet foods like fruits and vegetables must be removed if not consumed or they will spoil. You will learn how much your squirrel will consume in a sitting.
Squirrels are “sloppy eaters” with crumbs spilling out of their mouths as they eat. This is normal and due to the position of the incisors and shape of their mouth. When a squirrel eats it’s lower incisors do the gnawing and the gap between the incisors and molars allow some of the ground food to spill out. This is nothing to be concerned about and the squirrel will usually clean up some of the crumbs after eating. This is especially true for blocks.
Link to the Henry’s diet triangle – proper supplemental foods to block base diet (Click Logo):
Link to purchasing essential Henry’s supplemental diet & Henry’s products (Click Logo):
Link to purchase Envigo Teklad blocks. We only recommend Small Furry Pet Supply due to their sanitary handling, cental Illinois shipping location, business ethics and great pricing. Up to year one order 2018, after year one to old age order 2018
To order from Small Furry, Envigo’s official distributor Click Banner
Representations of Henry’s Healthy Blocks, Envigo (Harlan) Teklad 2018 Blocks & Mazuri 5563
Nuts are large part of a squirrels natural diet in the wild but must be given in moderation in captivity and ONLY after the squirrel has learned to eat blocks. Nuts and seeds rob calcium. In the wild this is not an issue as skin absorbs UV B from the sun and isomerizes into vitamin D3 which regulates calcium. Calcium is obtained from many natural sources in the wild. Nuts do provide essential nutrients and keep the teeth worn. I prefer giving Hazlenuts or Pecans and I always sample (open) a nut or two every batch before feeding to make sure they are not moldy inside. Aflatoxin is produced by certain mold and is deadly. Feeding in the shell is good for enrichment and keeps the incisors worn down. I give several nuts a week and make sure they are not being hoarded when I clean out the cage. Do not give a captive squirrel Sunflower seeds!
Occasional Pecans and Hazlenuts in the shell are good for wearing incisors and are high in protein however must be fed in moderation!
Warning: Do not feed Acorns from the wild due to Aflatoxin. Acorns that lay on the ground develop cracks and moisture gets in causing mold to grow. Wild squirrels seem to know which ones are bad. In the wild there is an abundance to choose from. A captive squirrel does not seem to use the ability to select certain premium nuts because they are in short supply. You will see a wild squirrel rolling a nut “testing” it for viability.
If you have a captive squirrel, you may be wondering what a wild squirrel eats and how to replicate that diet. A healthy and balanced squirrel diet is easy to achieve for a captive. In the WILD Nuts and seeds make up as much as 95% of the eastern gray squirrel or fox squirrel’s diet. In particular, squirrels prefer acorns, hickory nuts, and beech-nuts. Insects and other food derived from animals make up under 2% of a squirrel’s diet. In captivity this is way to many nuts and will cause metabolic bone disease so the majority of the captive squirrels diet should be quality rodent blocks with Henry’s block supplement.
To prevent your pet squirrel from eating too much or too little, we should also figure out the total amount of food he or she needs every day. Let’s start with the fact that the average squirrel eats about 100 pounds of food each year. Some simple math will give us our answer:
So, your squirrel will eat just over a quarter pound of food every day. This is just for a reference and you do not need weigh or measure out this amount. Bottom line have Teklad 2014 for squirrels over one year available on demand in a dish, and 2018 for young squirrels under 1 year. In addition one or two Henry’s Adult Block supplement per day and a varied, healthy mix of fruits, veggies and small quantities of nuts off the Henry’s Squirrel Diet Chart. Following this regimine will ensure a long life for your captive squirrel.
Water
Your squirrel must have a water bottle and they will learn to use it on their own. Change the water daily to prevent the growth of algae and do not use soap to clean the bottle. Hang the bottle outside the cage. To clean a water bottle add a little baking soda and water in the bottle, shake and rinse thoroughly – this cleans the inside nicely. We prefer bottled spring water. If you use tap water make sure to run it as lead in old copper pipe joints or chemicals from CPVC piping can leach into the water after sitting in a pipe. Just run it for a few minutes before filling the bottle. Check the bottle dripper tube with your finger daily by agitating the ball to make sure water is being supplied. I only use Lixit brand 16 oz glass bottles with stainless tube and ball mounted on the outside of the Critter Nation: Lixit Link If your squirrel chews on the plastic where it meets the dripper tube get a large fender washer and put it over the stainless tube before mounting on the cage.
Other Animals, People & Small Children
Do not allow small children around any wild animal. Squirrels usually bond to one or possibly two people and may view a small child as a threat. With 7000 PSI of bite force a squirrel can inflict a lot of serious injury on a small child. Aside from not telling even close friends you have a squirrel, allowing it out of it’s cage around strangers usually results in aggression toward the stranger in the squirrel’s territory. A serious squirrel bite is a sure way to get your squirrel seized.
Also squirrels and predators do not mix. Even if your dog or cat is good around other animals the predatory instinct can kick in at any time and that usually does not end well for the squirrel. Predators also cause alarm and stress in squirrels so your effort to force friendship between your squirrel and your cat or dog is not good for the squirrel. Keep your squirrel in a different room from all other animals.
A REALLY bad idea!
Outdoor Time
Do not take your squirrel outdoors without being in a securely locked cage that cannot be opened or your squirrel will be lost. I sun my squirrels in small “sunning cages” that have 3 additional dog leash clips securely locking the door shut. Isolate the bottom of the sunning cage from the ground so parasites do not get on the animal. Squirrels must NEVER be unattended outdoors or left in direct sunlight. Partial sun filtered through a tree is best. You must sit with your squirrel to monitor temperature so the squirrel does not heatstroke. Do not sun on days with air temps over 85 degrees (F). Put out a lawn chair and enjoy the outdoors with your squirrel. Outdoor partial shade sunning helps prevent metabolic bone disease. When sunning the skin absorbs UV B radiation and is converted to previtamin D3 which in turn isomerizes into vitamin D3 that plays a vital role in regulating calcium and phosphate metabolism thus helping to prevent MBD along with proper diet. If sunning is in view of neighbors do not bring your squirrel out as neighbors may report your squirrel.
Illness / Disease
Squirrels are hardy, healthy animals provided the right diet, caging and mental enrichment is given. Signs of illness include lethargy, dull eyes, labored breathing, hunched over with puffed fur, nasal or mouth discharge and difficulty eating or no appetite. Incisor teeth should be orange not white and nails should be dark with white tips, not white and chalky. If your squirrel does get sick we can help you find a squirrel friendly vet in your area. Email admin for help. Squirrels generally carry no diseases that are dangerous to people and squirrels are NOT rabies carriers – so relax and don’t worry if you get bitten. Just use standard bacterial precautions and wash well with soap and water. Infected squirrel bites are from bacteria present on your skin being pushed into the wound not from the squirrels mouth. If you have to go to a doctor regarding a bite don’t tell them it’s from your “pet squirrel”. In many jurisdictions reporting is mandatory and you will likely receive a visit from animal control along with Fish & Wildlife to have your squirrel seized.
Vet Care
If you need a veterinarian please use our Contact Page for information on locating vets in non-squirrel friendly states, we have a huge list. We do not post such information because vets in many states will have issues with Fish and Wildlife for treating captive unlicensed squirrels.This AEMV link lists exotic vets in your area that are properly licensed and trained to handle exotics. Many are “pet” (captive) squirrel friendly. Make sure to ask if the vet will treat without reporting/seizure if in an unfriendly state. Link: AEMV Note: To use the AEMV page leave “search and group” parameters unchanged, just enter Country and State for list. Again use our contact page if unable to find a vet through this link and we will find you one through connections in the zoo and wildlife sanctuary organizations. Do not use your home address on any vet intake form.
Maturity
When your squirrel reaches sexual maturity hormonal changes will effect it’s behavior. Female squirrels 1st estrus is usually at around 1 year with a mean of age of 1 year 3 mos but can be as early as 5-7 mos. Males mature between 1-2 years and their 1st rut is usually less of an issue than a females estrus. Some squirrels calm down after this milestone and become more docile with age. Others clearly want out and become aggressive. This poses a problem for true non-releasables due to medical condition. In the case of a healthy squirrel that is not happy proper soft release (at the correct time of year) with an experienced rehabber is the humane course of action. With NR’s spaying or neutering is advised only if aggression is an issue and it may or may not have an effect. My intact NR’s have not had this issue and are bonded.
Squirrels mark their territory by rubbing their mouths and hindquarters on objects. Scent from apocrine glands in the skin of their mouths communicates to other squirrels this is their territory and also play a role in mating during estrus. Their scent is not perceptible by humans and squirrels have no unpleasant odor.
Squirrels molt twice a year. In the fall the molt begins in the rump and progresses toward the head. I the spring it is reversed. Missing fur can be a sign of a nutritional deficiency and something you should discuss with an experienced vet or ask for advice on our forum or the Squirrel Board.
Lifespan
A squirrel in the wild averages 1-3 years due to predators, disease, car strikes, weather, hunting, freezing, starvation – the list is LONG. In captivity a squirrel can possibly live up to about 14 years although 9-10 is the average. If you choose to keep a squirrel be prepared for a long term commitment. If this is not for you please leave the task to others. If you re-home your 5 year old squirrel because it has become inconvenient or behaviors change whoever receives the squirrel will have an aggressive animal that will probably be dumped outdoors. Releasing a squirrel that has been captive for that long does not turn out well for the squirrel as the wild is as foreign to a captive as captivity is to a wild squirrel. In addition a squirrel is an intelligent, emotional animal with feelings. The squirrel does not understand why it’s life has been uprooted because it’s natural instinctual behaviors do not sync with humans in an indoor household. Be prepared to deal with squirrel behavioral traits for at least 9 years or more if you take on this responsibility.
Special Needs
Long term care of special needs squirrels requires special considerations. Taking on a squirrel with disability requires patience, time, special housing and possibly meds & regular vet care.
Injuries
Every day squirrels are injured in accidents involving falls, cars, machinery, from predators, wildfires and many other causes. Every injury is different and must be evaluate by a vet to make sure the squirrel can survive with a pain free existence. If you have an injured squirrel use our contact page and we can help you determine what is best for the squirrel.
In this photo “Lucky” cuddles with his squirrel-mom after healing from a horrific chainsaw injury rendering him non-releasable. Lucky was properly treated by an experienced wildlife vet and it is legal to hold him in Florida.
Paraplegics (hind legs paralyzed) are the most common and many can live long happy captive lives provided a knowledgeable vet diagnoses a pain free existence is possible. Paras require a low but long and wide cage and plenty of out time to interact with their holder. Paras may require initial manual expressing of the bladder and most regain some function. To express the bladder use the thumb (see video below) and gently draw downward applying slight pressure. Once you notice the squirrel going on it’s own you will not need to express but the squirrel should be monitored closely. Also watch for discharge/odor which may be signs of infection. Paras are susceptible to UTI’s and a course of Trimethoprim Sulfa will be necessary if this occurs. I feed organic Cranberrys as a prophylaxis. Many have no control and clean sheets in the play area may be required. Urine scald occurs when the skin of the underside is constantly wet with urine. You must rinse and keep clean your squirrels underside to avoid urine scald and UTI’s. A drop of dawn, lather, followed by a rinse (dry thoroughly) is best. Drag sores may occur on the underside and we can get a “Drag Skute” made for your squirrel – just contact us. When you first get a para consult with us or your vet regarding the use of Meloxicam, Dexamethisone, Prednisone or Prednisilone to reduce swelling. Xrays under light sedation with a portable dental Xray unit for high resolution images of the affected are of the spine is a must to determine viability. Quadriplegic squirrels (4 legs totally paralyzed) should be euthanized.
Here front end compromised Eastern Fox Squirrel “”Sweetpea” is able to eat her Teklad nutritional block by using her left hand. She is happy, affectionate and able to get around. Euthanasia was not necessary.
Levels of paralysis vary. I have 2 paras with partial paralysis. They unable to sit up to eat or walk. Such squirrels would not be able to balance in a tree or climb down and need constant care and enrichment. Squirrels exhibiting full hind leg paralysis need more intensive care. Most levels of paralysis render a squirrel non-releasable.
Photos: portable high resolution digital Xray unit, contusion on spine from fall causing paralysis, & para “Noodles”
Video by Mary Cummins on how to express bladder showing the thumb method
My melanistic Spina Bifida para girl “Noodles” enjoying out of cage enrichment time. Small cardboard boxes, carpet tubes, balls and climbing / tug ropes can provide hours of enjoyment!
Blind squirrels require cages that have no sharp items that will injure them and the cage should be shorter and wider than usual to prevent high jumps. Squirrels who have some vision may be able to jump and navigate to a degree but are generally non-releasable. Totally blind squirrels must NOT be released back into the wild and can adapt to captivity just fine but it takes time for them to adapt. If born blind the squirrel will not know anything else. A squirrel that loses it’s eyesight will be frightened, needs time, patience and gentle handling. It is important to give your blind squirrel verbal cues as to you presence and extend the back of your hand so your squirrel can identify you by scent.
Albinos are squirrels having a congenital absence of pigment in the skin and fur and the eyes. True albinos have pink eyes not to be confused with white morphs which have dark eyes. Albinos go blind from UV exposure and are extremely disadvantaged when it come to predication. Albino squirrels should never be released back into the wild and are good candidates for NR educational squirrels.
Neurologically impaired squirrels due to head trauma need to be monitored for seizures and your vet may need to prescribe Phenobarbital or a similar medication. Some neuro squirrels are calm and domicile and other are aggressive. you cannot predict squirrel personality especially with a neuro. Squirrels that spin in circles constantly and show no improvement after meds should be euthanized by a vet.
Dwarfs are one of the most difficult squirrels to keep healthy and safe from injury. The 1st photo below is of a fully grown achondroplastic dwarf named “Stuart Little” held by Dr. Alesia Emerson, 2nd photo is of Joy held by MEL1959 and 3rd photo is of my extremely rare melanistic primordial dwarf “Buddi” who required 4 hand feedings / day for 3 years. Skippy (one of our moderators) posted excellent information about dwarfs here: https://squirrelforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=138
Most dwarfs and failure to thrive squirrels require multiple daily hand feeding of a special formula mix consisting of ground Teklad 2018 blocks, Fox Valley 20/50 and baby food. Contact Mel1959 or Chicken Legs on the Squirrel Board for more information on this subject as she is an expert.
Malocclusion (Mals) are squirrels where the normal occlusal plane (teeth alignment) in the mouth does not line up properly due to genetics or from trauma. As a result the squirrels teeth grow at abnormal angles as shown in photos below. Regular trims are required for the life of the squirrel – usually every 6 weeks. Again Xrays with a high resolution portable dental Xray unit are mandatory along with a visual inspection of the molars for points using an Otoscope. Jaw injury may cause misalignment causing spurs to grow on the molars. If this occurs a skilled vet/dentist will have to “float” the molars with special miniature hand files. Many people trim incisors at home (2 person job) and a popsicle stick wrapped in medical tape must be placed behind the incisors to protect the tongue and keep chips from getting in the mouth. It is always best to have it done professionally by a vet with a dental handpiece under light sedation. Trimming without sedation can be very stressful for most squirrels. Excellent article by Mary Cummins about treating Malocclusion: http://www.mary.cc/squirrels/malocclusion.htm
Photo one credit to Brad Gene, before & after trim photos courtesy of Mary Cummins licensed rehabber
This video illustrates correct trim method for baby Regina by a licensed vet. As stated above this video shows the wrapped medium popsicle stick behind the teeth to prevent chips from going into the mouth, and to protect the tongue & cheeks from flying chips and the clipper. Wear safety glasses when trimming and have a second person assist. If possible have a vet do the trim under light Isoflurane gas with a dremel to reduce trauma and correctly trim to the right length leaving a flat edge.
Amputees are non-releasable for obvious reasons. Under our videos watch “Nuts About Squirrels – the Nature of Things” starting at 12:28 and you will understand why an amputee cannot safely survive in the wild. They require all four legs to leap and land safely. They are more likely to fall and landing on 3 legs is a sure recipe for serious injury. If you have an amputee you must consider safety depending on which leg is amputated and build your housing accordingly.
Exotic Squirrels
If you have or acquire a non-native exotic squirrel please contact the Squirrel Forum on our contact page. We have a lot of zoological consulting experience with Prevosts, Variegated, rare Giant Malaysian, Asian Palm and other exotic species and can advise on proper leaf eater diet. Variegated squirrels may carry Bornavirus (VSBV-1) so extreme caution must be exercised with this species.
Legal considerations – rehabbers & personal holding of NR’s
Most state Fish & Wildlife regs do not allow individuals or even rehabbers to keep NR’s except for legitimate “educational purposes”. Some like Michigan will allow NR’s with a captive permit provided the captives are housed in a separate facility from the rehab. Personal use holding varies greatly from state to state. The Squirrel Forum admin will work with individuals & rehabbers to find permitted experienced holders (homes) for NR’s that have disabilities but can live a happy life with the right person. Every state is different so contact us with your situation and we will help find solutions within the scope of the law. Permits for captive squirrels are available in many states – examples (just some of mine) are shown here. You just need to follow the rules and regulations. Of course some people choose to keep squirrels under the radar and do not broadcast it. A general outline of state regulations is under our “Laws” page on the green nav bar.
Relocation
If you move from the geographical area where your squirrel originated in the wild there are several considerations. Squirrels have sub-species designation – and for good reason. The mitochondrial DNA of an Ohio Squirrel is WAY different than that of a Florida squirrel. Squirrels from different geographical regions must never be released in other geographical regions due to the damage it will cause the native sub-species. A squirrel from southern Ohio being released in Kentucky is ILLEGAL but in reality the local squirrel DNA and climate are similar so it will not harm the sub-species in the area. Releasing a southern squirrel up north will result in the death of the squirrel. If it successfully breeds certain hot weather traits such as short coat, sparse tail hair, small lean body will be passed on and can cause serious damage as the DNA spreads in this prolific species. You may also spread diseases like Parapoxvirus.
There was a poster on another board who released a Fox Squirrel from Austin TX in Northern Michigan. This squirrel was suffering horribly and thankfully re-captured. If you move into a different geographical region you must protect your squirrel from escape, never release, or make arrangements to get the squirrel back to it’s state of origin if you cannot keep it.
Here are all the known subspecies of squirrels so you can see how varied the species is:
Eastern Gray Squirrels (Sciurus Carolinensis) S. c. carolinensis, S. c. extimus, S. c. fuliginosus, S. c. hypophaeus, S. c. pennsylvanicus, Western Gray Squirrels (Sciurus griseus) S. g. griseus, S. g. anthonyi, S. g. nigripes and Fox Squirrels (Sciurus Niger) (some foxers are endangered or species of concern) S. n. niger – southern fox squirrel, S. n. avicinnia – mangrove fox squirrel, S. n. bachmani – upland fox Squirrel, S. n. cinereus – Delmarva Fox Squirrel, S. n. limitis – Texas fox squirrel, S. n. ludovicianus – pineywoods fox squirrel, S. n. rufiventer– western fox squirrel, S. n. shermani – Sherman’s Fox Squirrel, S. n. subauratus – delta fox squirrel, S. n. vulpinus – eastern fox squirrel.
Now you see why you cannot introduce squirrels from different regions and the damage it may cause to DNA and differing subspecies. Foxes and Grays do not breed together but S. c. carolinensis & S. c. pennsylvanicus can.
More grooming from Internet sensation “Newton”!