Caring for your flying squirrel

UNDER CONSTRUCTION

Anne B Miller

Library of Congress

101 Independence Avenue, SE

Washington, DC 20559-6222

This book is dedicated to

Judy Call, aka Muffinsquirrel, a lover of flying squirrels. Judy taught me so much about flyers. She was never too tired or too busy to talk if you called her with a question or a problem, or just to talk flyer. So much in this book came from her writings or wealth of information on all things flying squirrel. Judy, you left a huge hole in our squirrel world. My hope is to pass on your wisdom and love, and to continue your gift.

Introduction to Flying Squirrels

Scientific Name: Glaucomys spp.

Description: Northern flying squirrels (Glaucomys sabrinus) and southern flying squirrels (Glaucomys volans) are the only two native flying squirrel species found in North America. They are both gray-brown, but the northern flying squirrel has belly fur that is gray at the base, and for the southern flying squirrel the belly fur is all white. Flying squirrels might more appropriately be called “gliding squirrels,” because they aren’t capable of true powered flight that a bird or a bat can do. Flying squirrels glide. They have a special membrane between their front and back legs that allows them to glide through the air between trees. When a flying squirrel wants to travel to another tree without touching the ground, it launches itself from a high branch and spreads out its limbs so that the gliding membrane is exposed. It uses slight movements of the legs to steer, and the tail acts as a brake upon reaching its destination. Flying squirrels can cover more than 150 feet in a single glide!

Size: Size is one way to tell northern and southern flying squirrels apart. The southern species is smaller, about 8 to 10 inches in length. Northern flying squirrels are 10 to 12 inches long.

Diet: Flying squirrels are omnivores. They eat a variety of foods including seeds, nuts, fungi, fruit, and insects. Southern flying squirrels are considered to be one of the most carnivorous squirrels, because they supplement their diet with eggs, birds, and carrion.

Predation: Flying squirrels make great escape artists, thanks to their superb gliding abilities. Once a flying squirrel lands on a tree trunk following a flight, they promptly scurry to the other side of the trunk to avoid any predators that may have followed them. Nevertheless, owls, hawks, tree snakes, and climbing mammals frequently manage to catch and consume these tiny rodents.

Typical Lifespan: Flying squirrels can live up to 10 years in captivity, or about half that in the wild.

Habitat: Flying squirrels live in deciduous and coniferous forests and woodlands. They make their homes in snags, woodpecker holes, nest boxes, and abandoned nests of birds and other squirrels. Sometimes multiple squirrels will nest together to keep warm in the winter.

Range: The southern flying squirrel is found throughout the eastern U.S., from Maine south to Florida and west from Minnesota south to Texas. The Northern flying squirrel has a much patchier distribution, but is found primarily in the northeast, along the west coast, and into Idaho and Montana.

Life History and Reproduction: The northern flying squirrel mates once per year, but the southern flying squirrel mates twice. When the young are born, they rely on their mothers to care for them for two months.

Fun Fact: Humans have long been envious of the flying squirrel’s gliding abilities. Base jumpers and skydivers have developed a special suit that mimics the flying squirrel. The suit works to slow their descent and allows them to maneuver through the air.

Conservation Status: Flying squirrels are common rodents in many parts of the country, but because they are nocturnal, few people ever see them. Two subspecies of northern flying squirrel are federally listed as endangered due to habitat loss.

Sources:

ARKive
Chattanooga Arboretum & Nature Center
Connecticut Department of Energy & Environmental Protection
NatureServe Explorer
Sialis
University of Michigan Animal Diversity Web:
Glaucomys sabrinus
Glaucomys volans
U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service

Flyers are not for everyone

OK – here is the rundown on having a flyer as a pet. When you first get one, it is a baby. It may still be on formula, or it may have been totally weaned. At any rate, it will spend most of its waking time on you, probably in your shirt. It will be the cutest thing you have ever seen in your whole life, and as soft as a cloud. As it gets older, it will start venturing away from you – not far, at first – just onto the chair back or computer table or wherever you spend your time with it. Your flyer will love taking treats from your hand – pecan pieces, a Cheerio, or a bit of apple. And he/she will snuggle down in your shirt and sleep for hours. All this time, he will be growing, and finding out what it means to be a flyer. This is not something you, or another squirrel, will have to teach him…..it is instinct, born into him because he is a wild animal, a flying squirrel. He will stop wanting to play during the daytime, and want to stay up and play all night. He will spend a lot of time fixing his nest just like he wants it, and where he wants it. (They always need more than one choice of nesting pouches or boxes.) He will discover favorite spots for stashing food – mostly nuts, if you’re lucky. (If he stashes enough apples for a long enough time, your home will begin to smell like a brewery, as they will ferment!)

He will also be doing a lot more exploring when you have him out. He will find nooks and crannies that you never dreamed existed in your house. Of course, you will already have flyer-proofed the rooms he is allowed into, but he will most likely teach you a few places that you forgot. Keep the toilet seat down at all times, cover any aquarium or fish bowl, make sure he can’t get into the vase of flowers, or a bowl or any container of liquid, and keep the chocolate under lock and key! Your flyer will want to be up as high as he can get. The top of your drapes or curtains, your bookshelves, etc., will become his favorite places. Anything will become fair game for chewing – wires, furniture, cabinets, books. And a closet is a flyer’s Disneyland, full of shoes to chew, pockets to hide in, and sweaters to chew up and add to his nest. He will still love you, and use you as a tree to jump to or from, and occasionally will shirt dive and take a short nap. As time goes by, he will become more and more independent, and will develop quite a sense of humor. Well, he’ll think it’s funny, anyhow! You may not appreciate the humor in calling your flyer’s name and searching high and low for him for hours, only to finally find him sitting on top of the bookcase with a smirk on his face, watching his human go crazy!

As time goes by, he or she will reach maturity, breeding season will come around, and your sweet little ball of fluff will become an unpredictable maniac. Offer him a nice piece of pecan as a treat, and he may bypass that and go for a finger. He may bite once, or he may become a furry piranha and leave your whole hand bleeding before you even know what has happened. If he doesn’t agree with your idea of bedtime, he may make his feelings known with a little nip. Eventually breeding season will end, and your normal flyer will return once more – until the next breeding season!

Always remember, your furry friend is, first and foremost, a wild animal. When he is hurt, or scared, or just in a bad mood, he will react as instinct guides him – with teeth and/or claws. He is NOT being mean; he does NOT suddenly hate you. He is just reacting like he is supposed to. This is something that you cannot train out of them, or breed out of them, or tame out of them. You CAN make it less likely to happen, by the way you treat him, and by getting a flyer from a responsible breeder. His own personality will have a lot to do with how tame he will be. But 99 out of 100 times, your flyer will not want to sit in your hand and be petted, or sit on your shoulder while you go about the house doing whatever you want to. He will not cuddle for long periods of time, or come when you want him to without fail. He is a wild animal and will stay that way. Any loyalty or friendship he shows to you is a gift from him, to be given at his discretion. And it is only given after you have earned it.

Think long and hard before you decide to be owned by a flying squirrel. It is definitely not a life for everyone. It is expensive, very time consuming, and sometimes the rewards are few and far between. These creatures can live up to 15 years or more, and it will be your responsibility to make sure he is fed correctly, well housed, provided with a challenging environment for physical and mental health, receives proper vet care when needed, and is treated with respect and love throughout his life. Acquiring an exotic pet is just like having a child – you are no longer foot loose and fancy free. You have a dependent, and without your care, it will die. It is difficult to find anyone to leave a flyer with when you go on vacation, and taking it with you can be dangerous, as they are illegal in many states. You run the constant risk of your pet being euthanized, and you having some expensive fines to pay.

Muffinsquirrel (Judy Call)

Aging Southern Flying Squirrel Pups

By pictures and descriptions

Sometimes the weight of a Flyer pup is the easiest way to determine age. Or course the best way is to know the day they were born or the day their eyes opened. Weights should only be used with healthy, hydrated babies. This is to be used only as a guide line, it is not absolute.

Birth-Hairless (short whiskers present), eyelids sealed, ear canals sealed and ear flap folded itself; internal organs are visible through the skin; claws are present, toes are fused. Sex is readily distinguishable. Weight 3 grams.

Day1-attempts to squirm forward on belly while moving limbs in uncontrolled fashion; may be able to right itself; capable of weakly clinging to objects with forefeet.

Day3- Baby able to turn over when placed on back; can turn in circles about the pelvis using front feet for propulsion; can hold its head in an upright position. Weight 5 grams.

Day 7-Skin darkening on head and back; belly remains pink; short hairs appear on head, chest, shoulders, and midline of back; ears erect but canals are still closed. Some can now right themselves from dorsal to ventral. Toes are still fused. Weight about 7 grams

Day 9-Some can now right themselves from dorsal to ventral. Toes are still fused. Here’s a great shot of the Patagium. Note digits are separated. Weight: 7 to 8 grams

Day 12-Can move backwards by pushing with fore feet; exhibits “spread reflex if suspended by tail. Weight: 10-11 grams

Day 14- Face and back fur turning brown, chin and face developing white fur; all the toes are separated, ear canals are staring to open; They can right themselves immediately. Weight 10-15 grams. Weight: 11-13 grams.

Day 16-Lower incisors begin to erupt. Weight: 12-13 grams

Day 20-Baby now almost totally furred; partially furred tummy (pink skin still visible); lateral hairs begin to develop on tail. He begins to respond to loud noises. Weight: 15-19 grams.

Day 25-28- Now fully furred, upper incisors erupt; eyes open, whiskers are 1 inch long. Eyes open. Fur has “greasy” appearance. Weight 25 grams.

Day 33- Attempts made to wash with front paws and to scratch with hind feet. Nesting material pulled and rearranged starts to take interest in solid food. Weight: 27-28 grams.

Day 35- weight: 30-31 grams, length: 7 inches

Day 38- weight: 32-34 grams

Day 40- Can now prop themselves on their haunches. Weight: 34-37 grams.

Day 44- Starts horizontal jumps of 6 to 8 inches after much head-bobbing. They are able to descend tree trunks now. Weight: 34-37 grams.

Day 47- leaps of 2-3 feet.

Day 56-Much longer glides are practiced, about this time there is a larger variation in weight. Weight: 48-55 grams.

Day 84- Molting of juvenile pelage begins, head to tail; capable of independent survival.

Adult flyer

Special thanks to Mark Skulborstad for some of the weights and pictures.

Sexing flyers

Below are pictures of flying squirrel genital of both female and male genital. As small babies with no belly fur they are easy to differentiate the two sexes. Once they mature to full pelage it is more complicated.

Female: 3 weeks old.

Male- 2 weeks old

Female- approximately 7 weeks old.

Male- approximately 7 weeks old.

Feeding your new baby

Formula for baby flying squirrels is based on 5 to 7 percent of the baby’s weight. You need to by a gram scale and weigh your flyer pup at least twice a week. The gram scale will do a second duty as long as you have your flyer as all medications will be dosed according to weigh. You may save yourself a trip into your vet’s office when you are established if you can provide an accurate gram weigh.

Gram scales can be purchased at any kitchen supply store or off the internet. I purchased mine show several years ago at Walmart. I like this one because it has a shallow clear plastic bowl. I just place a small piece of fleece cut to fit inside to keep pups from sliding around until they hold still.

Next in importance is to have several O-ring syringes and a nibble available before your baby arrives. Start with a 1/2 ml (cc) syringe if your pup is very young. I never use anything larger than a 1 ml (cc) syringe ever. Also consider purchasing a small nibble to fit over the syringe tip. I am particularly fond of the “Miracle nipple” and O-ring syringes. Both can be purchased on line at Chris’s Squirrels and more or from Henry’s Healthy pets. The O-ring syringes are wonderful as they do not start to stick after a few uses and have to be thrown out.

Hold your pup’s head upright at a 45 degree angle to feed, or stretch him out across your lap. Never feed him on his back like you would a human infant. If his head is not help upright the chances that are that he may aspirate formula or liquid into his lungs and develop fatal pneumonia. Should he start to make a clicking sound with every breath, he has come down with pneumonia and requires immediate antibiotics from your veterinarian.

Correct feeding angle:

Calculating 5% of Body Weight:

For a squirrel weighing 100 grams, multiply 100 x .05 to arrive at 5 ccs. (An easy way to check your math is to take the 5 cc’s, double it, and multiply by 10 to get the original 100 grams.)

Feeding Schedule

All guides are approximate. Use them with common sense allowing for the variations with each animal.

Age Frequency-

1 week every 2 hours with 2 night feedings

2 weeks every 3 hours with 2 night feedings

3 weeks every 3 – 4 hours. No night feedings.

4 weeks every 4-5 hours. No night feedings.

6 – 8 weeks every 4-5 hours. No night feedings.

How to mix formula and avoid problems

Keep powdered formula the freezer after it is opened.

Turn the can over several times to mix powder before measuring out what you need because some nutrients (the heavier solids) may settle to the bottom.

Mix up enough formula for 24 hours at a time and keep it refrigerated.

Mix 1 part powder + 2 parts water.

Use very hot water (about 175F), but not boiling because boiling may destroy some nutrients.

Add half of the water and stir thoroughly for at least a minute to make a smooth thick liquid, then add the other half of the water and again mix thoroughly.

Use a fork or a tiny whisk to mix the formula; it will mix better and smoother than with a spoon.

Try not to incorporate air into the formula as you mix it, and always let the reconstituted formula rest for several hours in the fridge (at least 4, preferably overnight) before using it to feed the baby. This will allow the milk powder particles to fully dissolve. At feeding time stir the formula again lightly and then remove only what is needed for that feeding. Warm the serving and stir again before feeding.

You may add a tiny bit of plain unsweetened full fat yogurt (or probiotics such as lactobacillus acidophilus from a drug store) at feeding time to the warmed formula, once or twice a day. If using yogurt add about 1 teaspoon (5 ml), and 1 tablespoon (15ml) to each 1/2 cup of warmed formula.

Keep the formula hot by placing a small container with a meals worth of formula into a large cup of hot water. I microwave the water in the cup.

How much to feed an infant squirrel in 24 hours

Take the squirrels weight in grams and multiply by .25 then divide by the number of feedings in a 24 hours period. That will give you the number of cc’s per feeding.

How to bond with your flyer

A flying squirrel requires an exceptionally dedicated owner to provide a sufficient amount of attention and bonding time to these very social creatures.

If his eyes are open you can keep him out more than an hour at a time. If he is nibbling any solid foods, you could give him a little treat when you have him out so he will know recognize you as a source of goodies. You do need to hold him in your hands some so he will get accustomed to being held. Just pick him up now and then and hold him still a short time. The goal is for him to learn that it is not such a bad thing and there may be a time when it is a life or death situation and you HAVE to hold him still. It also helps in the event he ever needs to see a vet. Vets don’t care to chase flyers around to check them out. If you have a mother and babies, and you would like to begin the socialization process with the pups – and if the mother is being cooperative – you can get them out several times a day and/or keep them out longer.

Take your new pup out of your shirt now and again, just holding him in a fairly loose palm, caress him, coo over him, then drop him back inside your shirt for more rest. Keep in mind that night time is their “active” time, and be sure you give a new pup a few nights confined to his cage, so he will recognize it as his home base, before you give him room freedom.

When he’s in the cage, expect him to be nervous when you first reach in, and expect him to jump away from your hand. Bring your open palm to him, and allow him to decide to climb aboard. If he’s in a corner, you can gently “cover” him with your hand, and scoop him up — but do not do this in a rapid way — gently, and slowly, so that he does not interpret the movement as a predator’s grasp. His momma would “cover” him with her body, and then “roll” him into a sort of ball, grasp him with her mouth by his belly, and then pick him up — you need to do sort of the same thing … roll him into a ball, and scoop him up — not a tight hold, but a secure hold.

The best way to work with a new flyer is in a small room (like the bathroom), where there is not much but you, for company and amusement. Allow the flyer to set the pace, and never make him feel “hunted down.” Try to get him to trust you with treats. Find something he really likes such as pecan pieces. Use small pieces that can be eaten quickly so he doesn’t want to run off to eat them. Make him take them from your hand to get them. Too much chasing may be defeating your purpose. You might try being very still and see if he will investigate you and climb on you. Also make sure you are interacting with him. Every flyer is an individual and you’ll be amazed at how much your own intuition will come in to play, in developing into your flyer’s best friend!

It is possible for flyers to bond with more than one person. Frequently a flyer will take a liking to a specific family member, to the exclusion of the one who actually wanted the little bugger in the first place! Often, a flyer will adapt to whoever is showing the most attention.

It can be helpful to “share” responsibility for the flyer’s care with other family members and for various members to take turns carrying the pup around while it is still young and impressionable. This way, the flyer will bond to more than one person … although they usually have their “favorite” HOF.

Taming and bonding methods

Bathroom Method

With an older flyer, it might be easiest to carry him into the bathroom in his nest box. Squirrel proof the room … make sure there are no places a mouse could squeeze through … and provide some sure traction (towels on the bar, a robe on the back of the door, cloth shower curtains — and it sometimes helps to use a blanket over the fixtures, to soften any possible falls). Make sure there are no places in the bathroom where he can get into the walls or floor or ceiling — check around the heating duct or pipes, and stick a sponge into the tub spout, as well as in the sink overflow slot, and of course put the stopper down on the tub and sink and close the lid of the toilet. It’s very helpful to have a towel covering things like the sink, because naturally, if a flyer has no traction, it makes them nervous. Hang a cloth shower curtain over the tub (With babies, put a comforter over the tub, and the spout/faucets, to make sure that, should the pup slip, they won’t hit a very hard surface.)

Hang a robe on the back of the door, and towels on the rack. The robe is useful for those times when a flyer is out of reach, right between your shoulder blades. Just stand, and lightly brush the flyer off your back with the robe — they usually climb aboard the robe, and thus you can collect them. Take hand towels and drape them on the shelves; again, for the traction.

Once the bathroom is “flyer tight,” then you can bring him there, box and all, and put a towel under the door, if the door is raised above the floor … and take along the newspaper or a book to read and just sit there with him. If you want, take him out of the nest box (you can “pour” him out on to your lap, if you’re concerned about getting bit), and then, just let him set the pace. The trick with an older flyer is to allow them to come to you. He will likely find a high place to sit and just observe you. Allow him to get so curious about you that he will be more willing to climb on your open outstretched palm. Once he’s comfortable, just move your open palm to him, offering him a place to climb. Don’t attempt to “contain” him in any way. When he goes to jump off, not only let him, but act as if it was really your idea and of course, have places for him to jump to that are secure, but accessible.

Pecans work well as bribes. Give him plenty of time and try to avoid making him feel “chased,” while still making an effort for contact. Talk to him. If he’ll allow, use your index finger to rub his cheeks and just under his chin. Once he knows you’re not going to eat him, he will likely get curious about you.

If he climbs on you, praise him lavishly, but in a quiet voice. “Baby talk” him — we all do it with our flyers 😉 He will come around, if you are patient and consistent.

Don’t be too eager to get him to move about. Flyers often like to sit still on a high perch for about an hour, before they begin to explore their surroundings. Place him on your lap and go about with your reading. If he should leave and seem to “huddle” into a corner, reach down slowly and “softly” in your demeanor, and gently encourage him to climb aboard your open palm (you can use both hands, to just nudge him on, and then just lightly and loosely cover him, to bring him up to your torso). Put him on your chest, and gently stroke his eyebrow, or rub his chin and cheeks. Most flyers just adore this — the brow is a bit easier than the chin, at first, with “adult” flyers. Just use an index finger, and the touch should be so light that the only way you know you’ve touched him at all is his eye will close, as your finger traces his brow. If he moves up to your shoulder, so much the better, from his point of view. Often, flyers will go to your back, out of reach. If he does, just let him, for a while. Then, reach back, and ‘herd’ him forward.

When you’ve read all you want, if he’s still in the catatonic “gargoyle” stage, you can begin to gently encourage him to explore — but don’t push too hard. You can also just scoop him up, and gently stroke his brow, while he rests in your palm or on your torso. The important thing in the “bathroom sessions” is that you not make him feel “hunted down.”

When he gets used to the visual surroundings, he will then begin exploring. It does help if the bathroom lights are not 100 Watts. Replace such with 40 W bulbs, if you can. And some flyers are a bit too confused by the “space” behind the “solid air” (the mirror) — if you find he tries to jump into the mirror, just use a sheet to cover the mirror.

Closet Method

Or you can use a closet instead of a bathroom especially if there are too many things in that bathroom more interesting to play on instead of you. But, you will need to empty the closet till nothing is inside and put in a 40 watt bulb.

Then started an intense two week bonding process, which starts with putting the sleeping flyer into your “squirrel shirt” (any shirt you don’t mind being pee’d on or chewed)! Once the wee one is safely onboard, I’d go about your day. Depending on how tame your flyer is, this might not be possible right away. Then when you feel him stirring, go into the closet. Sit on a pillow with a small water dish and a couple of pecans and pine nuts next to you. At first an older flyer may “fight” his way out of the shirt, and bolt for freedom, but there would be nowhere for him to bolt to, and since you are the tallest thing in the “room,” he will be instinctually drawn to “climb” you to higher ground. Only his fear may keep him away at first . Be as passive as possible, and let him come to you in his own time. Eventually, he will get bored, and feel safe enough to explore crawling about your person; though at first you may have to place the water and pecans between you to get him to approach; after a day or so hold your palm out with a pecan or pine nut. At first, he may snatch them up and run to the other side of the closet to eat them. But in time, he will take them to your shoulder to munch, and then eventually sit on your hand. If you have him in a cage make him come and take a treat from you to get out.

He will learn you give out treats and that you let him out to play. Basically try to get him to associate you with things he likes or likes to do.

Depending on how much human contact your flyer has or has not had, your progress may vary … the important thing is to never give up.

In An Older House

In a bathroom, use a stopper in the tub and stick a sponge into the sink overflow hole (some sinks have just a few small holes, for the overflow, in which case you’re likely safe). In your bedroom, check around any heating vents/pipes, and check around window and door frames.

In an older house, a bathroom might have too many places where a flyer can get lost or hurt due to the pipes to feed all the plumbing fixtures. A closet can be easier and more effective to squirrel proof.

Things to consider in an older home, heating pipes, space behind moldings, casement windows, large door gaps, are pretty much the norm. It’s usually a lot easier in the long haul to squirrel-proof one room rather than the entire house, but be sure the little guy doesn’t escape!

First off, plug up the gaps where the heating pipes enter the room. If you have old cast iron register types, the pipes will have most likely long ago lost their decorative pipe grommets. These are found for cheap in most home centers such as Lowe’s etc. Doors with large gaps at the bottom, can be fixed up with some weather stripping, the outdoor kind seems to hold up better. Wires can be covered with electrical conduit … they make two kinds, plastic and metal.

I use plastic, as my wee one tends to chew on wood a lot more. Any unused electrical outlets should be plugged just as with a small child. You’d be amazed where a flyer will want to fish with a paw!

Some houses have old wooden casement windows and while open, there is a gap at the top between the inner and outer panes so remember not to overlook this. Not to mention that fiber and metal screens are no match for a determined flyer! To be safe, keep all windows closed while he’s out and about.

Baseboard heaters have essentially three components within a room. There is the pipe which enters the room through a hole, and exits through another, there are the “fins” to help heat the air, and then there is the decorative/protective “cover” usually made out of sheet metal. The vertical cover is removable for cleaning/repairs and depending on when you had them off last might or might not come off easily. Once off, brush out all the cobwebs and take a good look around for gaps and holes (use a flashlight to make sure). Most likely they’ll be only the two, where the pipe enters, and exits the room.

The best things to close these are with metal pipe grommets (they make hinged types so you don’t have to cut the pipe) or expanding urethane foam. With the foam, you squirt a bit into the gaps, and the foam will expand to fill the space … then you simply “trim” the excess with a knife … though you can still cover it with a cover “just in case.”

But in the meantime for a quick fix there is always…..good old duct tape!!!! Start taping every hole you find and then check 3 more times.

And don’t forget to look up! Almost all flyers will want to be on the highest place in the room, so take a good look at the tops of curtains, shelves, bookcases for anything that might be a perch. Anything that you suspect might cause harm should be removed or secured.

Tent Method

Leashes are not good for animals as hyper as a flyer. Since flyers are a prey animal their natural instinct is to try to escape if confined. They can be trained to accept being held still for a short time once they trust you to not harm them. While daytime is a good time to work with them for the bonding process, it is also their time to be sleeping.

If their sleep is interrupted too much, they can get to be “grouchy” just like a person would. Being carried in a pouch or in your shirt doesn’t affect their sleep habit much. Handling during the day should be kept to a couple short periods per day. They can actually get accustomed to waking up during the day for a short play time and going back to sleep.

One thing that helps is having tiny treats for them. You want something small enough that he can eat it real quick and something he likes very much. Small pieces of pecan usually work well. When you pick him up, give him a treat. If he jumps to you give him a treat. You want him to think of you as a source of goodies. Getting the goodies will teach him to trust you. If the treat is too large they may want to be left alone while they eat it or they may want to hide it.

Mosquito Net Method

Get the type they use in the tropics to keep bugs off make an ideal, cheap and safe temporary ‘bonding’ room. This is essentially just a fine net, a bamboo/rattan ring, and a hook. The net is long enough to tuck under the mattress, and thus sealing the edges (there is an overlapping flap to gain entry/exit). Put down a blanket or towels over your good blanket or sheets to catch any wee one’s messes. You can then lie on the bed and watch TV while the little guy climbs all over the net, jumping back to you, burrowing into your cloths for several hours before he tires and wants to sleep. After you’re done, all that’s left is a small metal hook in the ceiling as the whole affair comes down and goes into a closet. \

The only drawback is that the net wouldn’t stand up long to flyer teeth if he really wanted out, but since you can get one for 30 bucks, it’s worth a try. And that lying on the bed, you might get tired and fall asleep before the little guy ran out of energy! LOL

Working with a shy or reclusive flyer is a challenge, but it is well worth the effort. Some adults do not like to be picked up, but can be very affectionate. They may play with you, but being “petted” might not be their favorite thing. Pups and some adults that are “only” flyers are more inclined to like “petting” and caresses. But healthy flyers are not “lap dogs”, and don’t hold still long! (Indeed, if an adult is too willing to be picked up and cuddled, it often indicates illness) It takes a good deal of time and effort, and one has to remember “flyer” psychology to succeed.

Thanks to Joan Baron and the NFSA

Behavior and correcting problems

Sudden Aggressiveness:

Flyers don’t go out of the way to bite someone just to be “mean.” There could be several reasons for this happening. The most common cause is an odor. Something is on the hand that smells like food. Or it could be an odor the flyer doesn’t like. A lot of flyers do not like certain soaps, perfumes, lotions, colognes, hair spray, etc. It can cause them to attack or bite owners who have had their flyer for years and had never been bitten. Flyers have a very keen sense of smell.

Females in heat and those pregnant often develop “an attitude” which includes biting and generally “obnoxious behavior.” It will pass.

Biting:

An aftershave or other smells can turn a flyer “off”. The “way” you take the flyer from his nest might contribute to the problem. Take a bit of bedding fluff with the flyer, especially an adult, and drop the whole bundle down your shirt. “Grabbing” at a flyer can make them very nervous … remember, they are prey animals — and see humans as a predator. Yell “NO!” if bitten and hold his face to your chest so he cannot bite or else time him out in a carrier or pouch. A loud hiss when your pet looks ready to bite can also work.

Ear Biting:

If things get very very bad, you may have to paint your ears with Yuki. Just a side note…never, ever stop giving the fliers hard shell nuts, UN-cracked. Trimming or filing their teeth is also an ugly situation. Another technique that might work (if the squirrel is tame enough). While you hold him, firmly but GENTLY wedge the TIP of your finger into his mouth, and hold his mouth open wide with your finger for a second or two. Be gentle but firm. The idea is to teach him to associate a slightly uncomfortable feeling with your finger being in his mouth. Try this a couple of times a day for a few days.

A combination of techniques can be the best of all. Many behavior problems are kept to a minimum when your let your pet know you are not only in LOVE with the little sweetie, you are in CHARGE.

Won’t eat veggies:

Buy some baby food spinach; mix it with berry yogurt and a tiny tad of peanut butter. Add a bit of granola, roll into a little ball. You can also crack open a nut and mash a bit of cooked kale into the nut’s crack. Be creative. Try plant matter, such as Spanish moss, likens mosses, dandelion flowers and tender new leaves, rose blossoms, honeysuckle flowers and fern fiddle heads.

Stereotypic Behavior:

The words “ritualized” and “clockwork-like” have been used to describe these behaviors. The salient points are that the behaviors:

a) do not occur in the wild
b) are repetitive
c) are apparently functionless.

Back flipping is a stereotyped behavior akin to feather plucking in pet birds and other problems due to excessive boredom. Some flyers can become so accustomed to doing back flips that they cannot run in a straight line. Some have become so habituated that even running across the floor, they will run a foot jump straight up like bouncing off something, run a foot, jump straight up, etc.

Also, if you watch a squirrel that really does a lot of back flipping, they will get dizzy. When they stop their head will nod for a bit and they sometimes start falling over like they are off balance. Running a circular track pattern around a cage isn’t much different from back flipping. Running in a wheel isn’t much different then running in a straight line. They won’t get dizzy or lose the ability to run in a straight line.

Encourage them to use a running wheel. Place them in it occasionally and they will get the idea. They have lots of excess energy that needs to be burned off. If they don’t use a wheel, they may develop habits like nonstop back flips, running in circles, etc.

Trembling/Vibrating:

New owners are often frightened when they discover their flyer trembling when being held. This is really NOT a problem, but often ultrasonic communication that is out of human hearing range. Another reason is “bruxing” in which the flyer is grinding its teeth. This is a natural phenomenon in flyers that need to keep their teeth ground down.

Nails Too Long:

Put a flat rough stone under the food dishes. They have to walk across the stone to get to the dish. There are cement perches for birds that help keep the nails short, Put hardwood branches in the cage and there is usually no problem with long claws. As a last resort … the nails can be trimmed. If you look at them the tip is a lighter color and that can be trimmed off.

Overgrown Teeth:

Flying Squirrels don’t make very loud noises unless they are cracking nuts in the middle of the night. Make sure flyers have wood, deer antlers, cuddle bone, and an occasional nut in their cage to gnaw on. These help decrease the size of the incisors.

One reason for overgrown teeth is a jaw problem which causes him to not want to gnaw. You will have to consult a vet for this. The second reason is just being lazy because he always had something else to eat and didn’t HAVE to gnaw open nuts. Try withholding all softer foods and only give him dry corn, rodent blocks, Zupreme monkey chow and nuts. If he only eats the monkey chow, switch to only Rodent blocks that contain most necessary vitamins and nutrients. A chinchilla lava block and/or a peanut/lava block (found in bird section of pet stores) may invite him to chew. Some flyers will chew those cement bird perch’s.

Chewing Things They Shouldn’t Chew:

The only downside to a Flying Squirrel is that they will chew things. If it gets away from you and gets into the attic (for example), it can chew through wires. They are also able to chew on wood, plastic, and fabrics. If your Flying Squirrel isn’t bonded, be sure it is restrained in some way to prevent escape. Gnawing is usually caused by needing the teeth worn down, but can be from boredom or hunger. Make sure your flyer has a good supply of hard shelled nuts in the cage. Hazel nuts are good because they are small but have a hard thick shell to get through. Some have found it helps to keep my flyers from chewing off limit things by placing live tree branches located throughout their out of cage area. Some even provide a branch that has been dead long enough to grow rather soft and gather bugs. Some flyers will forget about everything else. Of course, most people might not want ‘buggy’ logs in their home, but the bugs do not live long enough to cause a problem. Flyers think this is about the best banquet going.

Introducing new flyers

Introduce a newcomer slowly. Put cages side by side and touching, to start, for about 2 weeks. Swap some of their bedding material so each can get used to the other’s smell. Trade food bowls every other day or so. Too frequently and they might just start skipping a meal.

Before allowing much contact without a cage, make sure the pair are about the same size, in weight. (In other words, don’t put a juvenile right in with an adult. Wait until the juvenile is about adult size… 12 weeks) If the youngster is too young when you cage them together she may bond to him instead of you. Make sure there is at least two nest boxes, three would be better before putting them in the same cage. That way they can each have their own nest box and still have one to store food.

Allow an older flyer to access the younger’s cage and crawl on the outside. The younger can approach at will, but is protected inside the cage.

Gradually introduce mutual shirt time so you can remove one if necessary. Flyers will “hump” each other in play and establishing dominance, but it is easy to tell real aggression.

Out of cage mutual play time (under strict supervision) is next. Tag, bear hugs, humping and chasing are all part of flyer play. Even smaller flyers will let it be known when they’ve had enough from an older/bigger flyer.

Roughness to injury is rare … although they do seem to have an affinity with attacking each other’s tails sometimes to the point of slight bleeding and splitting of the tip.

An existing flyer seldom rejects a new companion. They also do not reject their HOF for bringing another flyer into the house. If they are very near the same age, and very young, it should be easy to get them acquainted. Just let them get to know each other at play time out of the cage. If one is much younger a little more time should be taken to get them acquainted. Use the separate cage method … then put both in one freshly cleaned cage so neither can claim it as home territory by scent. Make sure there is more nest boxes than squirrels so they can get away from each other if they want. There may be a few scuffles and some minor squabbles, but normally nothing serious as they generally prefer to have company.

Judy C’s recommendations:

I have found that the best way to get two of them together is to put them in an entirely different cage. That way, no one is ‘territorial’.

If you don’t have access to a new cage, try moving everyone out of the cage you want to use. Then wash it really good, use bleach, leave it in the sunshine a few days if possible. Redecorate it completely – different perches, toys, everything. If possible, put it in a different location. Then introduce them both to it. Good luck! It worked for me – I hope it does for you.

Tom Hauk’s Squirrel Match Maker Method:

Set up a new cage that neither has been in. Transfer them from their old cages to the new cage where there are several new houses (at least 3) and nothing that either had been using before. Put them in at different times and give them each a house. Leave them alone for an hour and then take each one out for shirt time and just set them in front of a fresh bowl of fruit and a few meal worms when you put them back in. Don’t be surprised if they both end up in the same house and sleeping soundly, tightly up against each other.

Tom Hauk’s Squirrel Match Maker Method:

Healthy Diet for Pet Flying Squirrels

You need to feed a High Protein diet.

Wax Worms, Mealworms, Even when they turn in to Millers they love them. You can try scrambled, boiled, or a poached egg, Baked fresh chicken, a wing or breast. I also cut the chicken wing bone in half and let them eat till their hearts content.

You also need to pick up some Cuttlebone for Birds and put 1 in the cage. They make a Calcium Mineral Chew that is the shape of an Ice Cream cone. You can find both at Pet stores. They will be in the Rodent and the Rabbit/ Chinchilla/Ferret sections. Just ask someone and they will help you find them if you can’t. I have 1 hanging inside in every cage I have. I hang them so they don’t fall to the bottom and get peeeeeed on. Just a 4 to5 inch length of dental floss, hang by the platform they feed on. When done it just safely drops .The flyers will eat on the cuddle bone and then the C/M Cone. They switch around. Sometimes it can be in the cage for a year or so before they use them. If they are not lacking Calcium they will not eat them. When needed, they devour it. I also keep a piece of deer antler and a clear length of femur bone in their cage, all good calcium sources and these last two help wear teeth down as a plus.

Fresh Vegetables, protein and a little dried formula every day.

Some like the formula by a syringe and some like yogurt by syringe or in a bottle cap. They like to pick it up and lick it like ice-cream!

Flyers can convert Vitamin D2 to Vitamin D3 from leafy greens and eating mushroom gills every day or so. All help with the D3 requirements to absorb Calcium.

They like sugar snap peas, broccoli plus their leaves, butternut squash and acorn squash. I will wash/dry the large squash seeds and feed them on the side. Asparagus, bell peppers and their seeds, The BP seeds need to be feed right away or they turn black. I cut the seeds/skin holding them and feed together. Fresh cranberries or frozen, cherry tomatoes cut in half, cucumber; avocado meat(Never skin or any of the pit) like crazy, and I mix up a green salad with romaine, bok choy, endive, any of the lettuces, or leafy greens- cabbage, and kale(good source of Calcium).

“Ice Burg Lettuce has nothing in it for them it’s all water. I never feed it.” You can buy the Ready Mixed salads mixed with all kinds of Romaine and Lettuce, Spring mix, etc.

Fruits.

You do not want them filling up on the Fruit, so just a little each time. Chunk of apple (peeled) or a pear, the size of a nickel. Blueberries (3or 4) depending how big, raspberries or black berries, cherry (poisonous pits removed), fig, prickly pear cactus fruit.” Oh and sweet potato- not too much. They have a large SWEET TOOTH and will steal it right out of your mouth if they can. One found a small piece of dark chocolate. Can you imagine a flyer on Speed?

Your pet needs a balanced diet containing the right amounts of protein, fat, vitamins and minerals. A healthy diet should include the following, provided fresh on a daily basis:

A variety of healthy vegetables and fruits

Wild foods from outside such as acorns check that they are not moldy.

A source of protein

A source of calcium

Treats (not necessary to provide daily)

Vegetables:

These add fiber, fresh vitamins, and micronutrients. Variety is key! Don’t let your pet get hooked on just one veggie.

arugula (Rocket)	asparagus
avocado (important for fur health and fat)	bok choy
broccoli rabe (rapini)	brussel sprouts
cabbage	carrots*
canola/rapeseed	cauliflower
celery	chayote
cherry tomato	chicory
Chinese cabbage (gai-lan)	cilantro, fresh
collard greens	cucumber
dandelion greens	daikon
endive	escarole
fennel	field pepperwood
flowering cabbage	garden cress
green beans	kale (important source of calcium)
kohlrabi	lettuce (all kinds, except iceberg)
maca	mushrooms (all kinds) (important source of Vitamin D3)*
mustard greens	okra
parsley (fresh)	pumpkin*
purslane	radicchio
radishes	rhubarb
romaine	radicchio
radishes	romaine
tatsoi	snow peas
soybeans	spinach* (good source of calcium)
squash, winter*	squash, yellow*
sugar snap peas	sweet potato*, cooked is best
Swiss chard	watercress
zucchini

*items marked with asterisks * are either high in sugar or have high concentrations of minerals or vitamins and should be fed sparingly.

Fruits:

Apple (peeled and seeded)	apricot
banana*	blackberries
blueberries	cantaloupe
cherries (sour and sweet*) pits are poison , contain cyanide!	cranberries
grapefruit	grapes*
honeydew	kiwi
kumquat	lemon
lime	mango*
nectarine	oranges
papaya	peach
pear	pineapple
pomegranate*	raspberries
strawberries	tomato*
watermelon

*items marked with asterisks * are either high in sugar or have high concentrations of minerals or vitamins and should be fed sparingly

Wild Foods:

These provide extra nutrients, amusement and exercise. Before you feed an unfamiliar wild food, always make sure it’s not toxic! Do not use flowers from a florist because they are often treated with unhealthy chemicals.

Safe plants and flowers:

bottlebrush flowers	camellia
carnations	chrysanthemums
clover (red and white)	crabapples
daisies	dandelion greens
hibiscus (all parts)	lambs quarters
magnolia cones	marigold
maple seeds	moss rose
natal plum	petunia
plantain	primrose
purslane	roses
rose hips	wood sorrel

Safe Trees (branches):

acorns (all kinds)	apple
aspen	birch
black walnut	bottlebrush
cherry	dogwood
hickory	locust
magnolia	maple
mulberry (all parts)	oak
orange	palm nuts & fronds (NOT the cycads: sago palm, cardboard palm, etc. are deadly)
pine cones	pear
pine (3-needle and 5-needle pines)	poplar
portulaca	raintree
spruce	torenia
walnut

Protein:

An important source of protein, grubs or insects must be included in a flyer’s daily diet. Sprinkle calcium powder on insects to reach a proper calcium/phosphorus balance.

acorn worms	cicadas
crickets	egg (hardboiled) or scrambled , I add the crushed shell to these
grasshoppers	grubs
mealworms	moths
waxworms

Calcium:

A must for preventing metabolic bone disease

cheeses (shredded, small pieces, cream)	cuttlebone (sold at pet stores for birds)
deer antler	Fox Valley formula (can be fed to adults as powder or liquid, sprinkled on fruits)
sour cream	yogurt (plain)high or full fat, unsweetened

Tooth health food:

These help keep teeth worn down.

chicken bones (cooked)	deer antlers (often available on eBay)
rocks (cleaned)	sea shells
tree branches (see wild foods)

Rodent blocks:

Offered as a supplemental food and NOT a main food.

Harland Tekland 2018	Henry’s Healthy Blocks Flyer Formula
Mazuri – rat and mouse blocks	KayTee FortiDiet – rat, mouse and hamster blocks (blue bag)
Boo Balls, recipe included

Treats:

These fun foods can help with bonding, but should always be fed in small amounts;

nuts, seeds, and dried fruits (raisins, cherries, banana chips etc.)

A box of clean dirt provides exercise, enrichment, surprises to chew on and minute amounts of trace minerals.

Nuts/Seeds/Grains:

To be given in small amounts as treats, no more than two a day.

almonds	black walnuts
Brazil nuts	flax seed
hazelnuts (filberts)	oats (raw/dry/unflavored/unsweetened)
pecans	pine nuts
pumpkin seeds	safflower seeds
sesame seeds	soy nuts
squash seeds	walnuts

Pictures of good food bowls:

Photo from the squirrel board

Photo by Patricia Allen

On the last plate is kale, avocado, broccoli slaw, hard squash like butternut or acorn, dehydrated chicken, oatmeal, a couple sunflower seeds, a sugar snap pea pod and mushroom. Bowls are 5 inches in diameter.

Here’s a random sample of a plate that my flyers received. Just for reference the plate is about 5 inches across. It has a little more fruit than usual with the strawberry, watermelon and orange wedge but the strawberry and watermelon are seasonal. One of my boys LOVES orange. They are all different and like different foods. I prepare 3 identical plates and they eat what they like. I don’t make special order plates for each flyer based on their likes and dislikes.

Early evening bowls; Broccoli, mixed baby lettuces, carrot, celery.

*Place Mushrooms in Sunlight to Get Your Vitamin D

Vitamin D is an essential vitamin that boosts the immune system and plays vital roles in human metabolism. Did you know that tasty mushrooms are one source for vitamin D, and that you can naturally multiply their levels by exposing them to sunlight?

We evolved living in more sunlight than today. We make our own vitamin D when sunlight hits our skin cells. Many people living in the northern hemisphere, however, suffer from lower levels of vitamin D during the fall, winter and spring. Fortunately, you can make your own supply of vitamin D-enriched mushrooms by simply exposing them to sunlight. You can sun dry or UV-zap store-bought or homegrown shiitake, maitake, button, and many other mushroom species. My personal preference is home grown organic shiitake. The high vitamin D levels generated will last for more than a year. Surprisingly, even sliced and dried mushrooms—including wild ones picked the year before—will soar in vitamin D when placed outdoors under the sun. Now, the summer time, from June until September, is the best seasonal window for people in northern latitudes to make vitamin D enriched mushrooms!

Boo ball recipe:

50 grams rodent block (crushed to a fine powder) I use Harlan Teklad 2018.

50 grams powdered squirrel formula.

50 grams crushed nuts. NEVER use peanuts.

3 capsules of Multidolphilus.

20 grams “organic” coconut oil (melted)

1 jar (approximately 100 grams) of Earth’s Best Organic baby food fruit (I use apples and plums)

Directions for mixing:

Mix dry ingredients together well (including the multidolphilus powder from inside the capsules).

Mix organic baby food fruit in to your dry ingredients until well blended. It will seem very wet.

Mix coconut oil into the mixture until well blended.

Put in the refrigerator for 5 hours (Overnight is even better). This lets it set up. It softens/moistens the rodent block and dissolves the FV.

Once you are ready to serve it take out about a 1/2 tsp (5 grams) of the mixture and roll is in your hands but not so much that it will melt the coconut oil. Give it to your squirrel.

Feed two of these a day; one in the morning and one in the evening.

Recipe by: Julie M. Rocco

Housing and some accessories for your flying squirrel

Safe water bottles for flyers.

Water silo Water tube

Please do not use the ball type water bottles, tiny flyer tongues can get pinched or worse between the sprout and ball. Look in the pet store bird aisle for a silo type bottle or a small hamster water tube.

This is the type of nest box I prefer, it has a top that opens for checking on my flyer(s) and for easy cleaning. It was purchased at a local pet store.

This cage is a good starter cage for bonding with your new flyer. I also use this cage for traveling to the vet or to treat a flyer that is not feeling well or perhaps needs special care for a few days. Its size is just right to place over a heating pad. The problem with this type cage, the sides have openings that can trap flyers feet and cause injury, best to weave small cut strips of fleece through the sides to protect your squirrel. This cage is not a suitable size home once your flyer is past 4 months old.

The following are some of my cages in my squirrel room.

Purchased cage: 32Lx21Wx60H with two large front doors and two smaller doors on the top sides: Good for one to three flyers.

Similar to the first large cage, this one is 14 W x 3 L x 35H: It has a shelf and only one large door in the center, there are several small doors placed in the front. This one has a nest box and has been decorated with floor and wire shelf covers, a boa, and a small inexpensive baby wheel. This is where I keep my babies or my nesting moms.

This is my flight cage built with 2x2s and hardware cloth. Below the cage has been decorated.

This is a homemade cage made by Cory Cox, using a found curio cabinet with the solid doors and sides removed and replaced with 1/2X1/2 inch hardware cloth. This cage was used for two flyers. The bottom doors and shelves were used for various supplies.

When making a DIY cage use 1/2X1/2 hardware cloth or smaller. Anything a flyer’s head will pass through is rapidly followed by the whole squirrel. Use unpressurized treated wood and attach the wire with screws or heavy duty staples over the wood.

Breeding

There are generally two breeding seasons for Southern Flying Squirrels:

November to February and May to July, although in the warmer climates, they breed almost year around. Flying Squirrels can be bred successfully in captivity and become sexually mature at around one year of age. The male will detect when a female is in heat and will pursue mating.

Oldest flyer to give birth that we know of is 10+ years. Youngest, 4 months.

Females in heat and those pregnant often develop “an attitude” which includes biting and generally “obnoxious behavior.” It will pass.

Female in estrus: Adult Male Flyer:

Variables Involved in Getting Flyers to Breed

There are many variables involved in getting flyers to breed. Some won’t stop breeding, some never breed, some need near perfect conditions to breed. Cage size, cage location, number of nest boxes, location of nest boxes, type of nest boxes, diet, number of squirrels per cage, amount of human interaction during breeding time, amount of artificial light per day compared to natural amount of light, are all factors.

It could also be the male that is infertile and not the female.

Generally the female will have 2 to 4 babies per litter, once or twice per year, but can produce up to seven or eight. As with most rodents, conditions of the cage should not become overcrowded because tension will occur and could possibly cause cannibalism or extreme fighting. The female needs to be isolated before giving birth and kept in her own private maternity cage.

The gestation period is 42 days and weaning will occur between 8 and 10 weeks, although sometimes as early as 6 1/2 weeks.

Signs of Pregnancy:

Parents are sleeping in separate boxes. Male is chased away a week or so after female becomes pregnant..
Female takes more nesting material to her chosen box.
Female may begin chewing calcium mineral block or another source of calcium.
Female doesn’t come out to play as usual
Will often squabble dramatically with any flyer
Vaginal area becomes more prominent a few days before birth.
Female’s teats will be far more visible than usual – the hair around the nipples will be flattened & even missing, if nursing.
Female may turn extremely aggressive and attack even when being fed.

Checking for flying squirrel pups

So try this if you really want to know. It will not harm the mommas or the pups, and, with any luck at all, won’t hurt you either.

You can do this day or night. You will need a good flashlight and a pencil with an eraser on the end. (The eraser is so that nobody will get ‘poked’ while you are peeking.) Lift the lid of your nest box (leave the nest box in the cage). All you will probably see is bedding – she keeps them very protected. Shine the light in the box and push the bedding around with the eraser end of the pencil. She probably won’t leave the nest box, and will be frantically trying to pull bedding over them or keeping them under her. If you look closely, you will be able to see part of a bubblegum pink alien under or beside her. After you have checked, leave her alone, put the lid down, and let her take care of them. You will not be able to see how many there are, and certainly not whether they are male or female, but you WILL know if there are pups.

That one peek is all you should take until they are AT LEAST 2 weeks old. Then, when momma starts coming out to eat while you are there, you can sneak another look. When they are 4 or 5 weeks old, you can pull them from the momma and take over the feeding with a syringe, and begin giving them some solids, and start getting them tame…..that’s when all the fun begins!

When you do separate them, try to put the babies in a cage as far away from the momma as possible. And keep in mind that they will need a heating pad under half their cage.

Squirrel safety and precautions

Locate a vet that is familiar with flying squirrels or exotic animals. Do this prior to actually needing him. Introduce yourself and make sure that he will be prepared to handle your flyers special needs when the time comes.

If your flyer has the run of your bedroom, open and close your dresser drawers slowly. Your flyer may have decided to curl up for a nap inside your shorts or socks and you don’t want to squash him.

Shuffle your feet when crossing the room, especially at night. They’re fast and will run right under your foot.

Don’t use towels for bedding. Your flyer will chew on them and they can get tangled in the threads and strangle themselves. “Squirrel Fluff” makes for very good bedding. And it’s fun to watch them gather it up and take it home!

Regular rodent hanging water bottles are NOT the best idea for watering your flyer. The ball can get stuck and prevent adequate water flow. If you use one of these bottles, be sure that you make another water source available too. Also flyer’s little tongues can get pinched by the ball or cut between the ball and the tube. Not plastic though, they will chew on the plastic and it can create serious health problems.

Be sure to provide a calcium source for your flyer. Cuttle bone works if you can get him to chew on it. You can also buy sterile pieces of antler at many pet shops or on line.

Yogurt is a good calcium source and most flying squirrels like it.

Watch out for exposed power cords, as your squirrel may chew on them with very negative results.

Depending upon how your bedroom is setup, make sure that he can’t get into the ceiling fan.

Others may disagree but I feel it is very bad to let your flyer co-mingle with the family dog. No matter how friendly your dog is, his size alone can unintentionally harm your flyer. Keep him away from any cats too, their natural instinct is to hunt, even senior cats.

Pecans are flying squirrels favorite food but feed them sparingly. Pecans should be used as treats and not a primary food source. 1/2 a pecan per day is certainly enough.

When you get a flyer you have to rethink some of your normal habits, if the flyer is not safely behind locked cage doors make no sudden movements. Look where you are stepping or kneeling or where you are putting something. Look before sitting down on furniture, especially ones with pillows or a throw. You could end up squashing your baby.

When closing a door, always look up.

It is very easy for a squirrel to get hurt by drowning, jumping on to dangerous objects, falling, trying to glide through glass, and they can easily get lost.

NEVER forget to close the toilet lid. Check every time a guest or male child uses your bathroom.

Toilet Ladder: If your flyer should fall in, he can grab and climb to safety.

There is a danger that almost everyone has and there have been countless dead rodents pulled out from under and that is your refrigerator. Your refrigerator has a fan in the back that blows air over the coils underneath. Older models have a metal blade about 6 inches in diameter and newer ones plastic but either way it is a spinning death trap to anything that gets into it. Many times the no cooling calls repairmen get are due to a mouse or rat getting into the fan and stopping it. This is 100 percent fatal so please take that into account as you baby proof your kitchen areas.

I have no idea what is behind hanging kitchen cabinets, but they have been known to hide holes in the gypsum drywall that would allow your little friend to travel up and down walls and sometimes even access the ceiling into other rooms, all dangerous options.
A little stiff cardboard (refrigerator boxes, all appliances stores throw them away daily) cut to fit and with vertical support, and even a touch of duct tape for good measure. The kitchen does not have to be a nightmare place every time the squirrel is loose.
Keep in mind it can be even worse above the cabinets .At the intersections (corners) where you don’t have a cabinet, you could have a 16 by 16 opening. Rarely are these large openings covered. And don’t think a squirrel, riding on your shoulder as you just go in for a glass of water, won’t leap up on top of your cabinets.

Also under the stove there can be a 2 inch opening, plenty of room for a curious flyer to enter; and get dirty and greasy, at best. Could be quite dangerous if it allows him to get behind the cabinets and slip into an unseen hole in the wall. There can be holes you’ll never see behind cabinets, and it doesn’t need to be a large one. A one inch hole will allow most flyers to disappear into “the dark ABYSS”. Another piece of cardboard can block that small slot, and keep your flyer grease and dirt free for another day.

Check beside your dishwasher as well, as they usually have ample room on both sides, for a fast moving squirrel to slip into.

It took one box, 30 minutes, a box-cutter, and a little duct tape to eliminate these dangers. You can’t be too careful, or too safe.
If you try any or all of these suggestions, and it saves even one squirrel from a fearful encounter. It will be worth it.

To prevent your squirrel from slipping under the door and getting loose in your house, buy a pool floating noodle and cut it to slip on the bottom of the door and seal the opening. They are easily cut with a utility or kitchen knife. This will prevent escapes and keep them safe from other pets also.

Door into room Door to hall from room Open closet door

Basic First Aid

The information contained herein is not designed to take the place of a veterinarian BUT is designed to give you some guidance in what you can do to help the baby squirrel(s) you have until you can reach help. Make sure you read this entire page first before attempting to do anything as there is a lot of information here and it is all very important.

First move your flyer to his baby (travel) cage where he can be taken to your vet and/or contained for treatment.

For a flyer with diarrhea or just dehydrated:

Do NOT use Gatorade or any purchased fluid containing any dye.

Rehydration fluid recipe-

1/3 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon regular table sugar

1 cup warm water

The squirrel and the rehydrating solution must be warm. Use a syringe to slowly introduce solution into the mouth. Go very slowly or the flyer will drink too fast and get formula in their lungs and get pneumonia, it literally drowns. They should get 5% of their body weight at each feeding. Feed the rehydrating solution every two hours for three feedings. For older flyers this can be placed in their water source; however I still use a syringe, to control and insure they are taking the solution. Weigh your squirrel until it’s regained the lost weight and out of danger.

Hypothermia (Loss of body temperature):

Symptoms-

Sudden lethargy/unresponsiveness-

Flyers can rapidly lose body temperature for many reasons. If you find your flyer lying in the cage looking and acting comatose; pick him up and warm in your hands while you ready a small cage and a non-shutoff heating pad on the lowest setting. Your goal is to slowly warm the flyer up without causing it shock by putting it into a too hot environment suddenly. A cold flyer’s body uses sugar stores to try and regain some level of warmth so this situation is one that can happen fast, and spiral downhill in no time. DO NOT attempt to give the flyer any fluids at this time. Do try and place a little molasses or sweet syrup on the gums to offset any hypoglycemia. I have seen so many flyers that basically looked dead for all practical purposes and it would be very easy to believe there is no hope at all but it is AMAZING the recovery these guys can make within a small amount of time so never think there isn’t hope with a cold, lifeless acting flyer of any age.

Hyperthermia (Heat Stroke):

Symptoms of Heatstroke-

Mild–Damp fur, appears to be sweating, rapid heartbeat and breathing

Moderate–Drooling or “foaming at the mouth,” labored breathing, vomiting

Severe–diarrhea (may contain blood or mucous), incoordination, seizures, collapse.

Emergency cool-down procedures for mild cases-

You must get the squirrel cooled down quickly. Seconds count!

Remove the flyer from the heat source, or out of the bonding pouch.
Dip the squirrel in cool water up to his neck.
Lay the squirrel down on a damp cloth with his head slightly elevated and turn on a fan.
Bathe the squirrel with a cold wet cloth, especially the head and tail areas. Ice packs can be placed around the squirrel (not on him or under him).
Offer a small amount of cool water to drink.

Note: Keep the squirrel as quiet and still as possible; exercise will cause him to become more overheated.

For moderate/severe cases, vet care is required to save the squirrel’s life.

For wound care use Dermagen ointment, it has 3 long acting antibacterial/ anti-fungal and steroid. Only has to be applied once every 2 days. Neosporin cream/salve can also be used on small wounds with no swelling, apply as needed.

Common ailments of flying squirrels

This is why it is so important that you have a knowledgeable veterinary set up before you purchase a flying squirrel or have to take your found baby for treatment.

Birth defects-

Inbreeding-Only your vet can diagnose and discuss the problem(s) and any possible treatment.

Seizures-

Treatment will depend on many causes including; Date of onset, injury if known, frequency and severity of symptoms.

Metabolic bone disease –

MBD- is very painful and very deadly. MBD is a severe calcium deficiency. It not only strikes squirrels but many other animals such as reptiles.

Symptoms in a flying squirrel may first appear as difficulty retracting it’s toenails from your clothes when out on your shirt/clothing, He may experience hair loss, develop a nasty attitude or biting. He may develop seizures, to the point where he can appear lifeless but within 20 seconds or less appear to recover completely. MBD can progress into rickets, hind leg paralysis, and loss of control of kidneys and bladder. Other signs may include: Bone deformities, brittle bones (which can result in breaks), stomach pains and then death.

These symptoms should not be taken lightly. The quicker the treatment is started the better the chances of recovery. Some of the paralysis and any deformities cannot be reversed. It can however be stopped in its tracks therefore quick treatment is very important.

There are treatments for MBD, but prevention through correct diet is the best cure. Once your squirrel is diagnosed, recovery takes many months and your squirrel will forever need special care and attention. A treatment can be found by a search on the squirrel board, but your vet is the best to guide you through the steps.

Keep them in a small cage until the pain is gone. This way the little guy won’t have to move far to get his food or water, and their body heat can be monitored.

Encephalomyocarditis:

This mystery ailment may be the underlying cause of sudden squirrel deaths.

Symptoms-

Difficulty breathing, rapid heartbeat, overall body pain (squirrel cannot get comfortable), possible vomiting. In adults it presents itself as MBD. The squirrel has the difficulty breathing and very rapid heartbeat, edema in paws, stiffness, painful to touch, uncoordinated, blisters on heels, & very reluctant to move. It can kill very fast. If it truly is encephalomyocarditis it is spread through urine & feces in rodents. This is viral in nature but could have bacterial secondary infections. No one really knows if this is truly viral or bacterial but it seems that antibiotics can be of some value. If there you have other flyers nearby, isolate the sick flyer immediately, and clean everything the flyer touched with a weak bleach solution or by washing in hot water. Call your vet for an emergency appointment for treatment.

Flying squirrel Facts and Trivia

The flying squirrel’s body secretes oil that totally repels any lice, fleas, mites, ticks, etc. There has never been a known case of rabies in flying squirrels.

Flying squirrels are prone to developing a calcium deficiency (MBD). This is due to the fact that they are nocturnal and don’t get sufficient sunlight. This is easily prevented by diet.

There are 38 subspecies of flyers in the US and Canada.

The definitive characteristic that tells the difference between a Northern and a Southern flyer is their size. Northern flyers are larger.

In an adult flying squirrel, the tail composes 40 percent of the total length.

Whiskers on a flyer are called: Vibrissae

A flyer’s fur coat is called: Pelage

A Flyer’s wings are made up of skin called: a Patagium (Patagia)

A flyer has its first molt between 3 and 6 months of age.

Flyers fail to appear when temperatures fall below 14 degrees Fahrenheit.

The average time flyers appear at feeders is 30 minutes before sunset.

The first arrival at the feeding station is an adult female (the “Boss” flyer).

The largest number of recorded flyers that has ever been seen foraging at one time since John Audubon’s description in 1851 was 100, at a feeder in Lebanon, PA in 1949.

Captain John Smith, Governor of the Jamestown Colony, wrote in 1609 that the local Native Americans had pet flying squirrels that they called Assapanick.

President Theodore Roosevelt was owned by a flying squirrel.

Foremost colonial American artist, John Singleton Copley, painted a portrait of a young boy and his pet flying squirrel.

Cost of Owning a Flying Squirrel (February 2016)

I have listed here some, but not all, you and your pet will need or want to be safe and happy. Throughout this book you will possibly see things that are not listed in this chapter, but are nice to have.

Owning a flyer is expensive. For those of us who like hard numbers, I figured I’d share what I have found as prices today in 2016. It should give a good perspective to new flyer owners or want to be owners to know what to expect.

Formula replacement for puppies

From Chris’s squirrels and more-

Fox Valley, 1 lb. pkg $11.40

Mini Miracle Nipple and three O-ring syringes: Nipple @2 $7.95, 0.5 ml O-ring syringe $.39 each, 1ml O-ring syringe $.39 each. Plus S/H.

From Henry’s Healthy Pets-about the same cost as above.

Esbilac Puppy formula-small can of powdered, $15 to $20.

Must Haves!

Digital kitchen gram scale, $15 to $25

No-shut off heating pad, $15 to $18.00

Bonding pouch, $16.99

Buying everything new: Based on researched costs 2016.

Flyer: $250, shipping + $150 to $200 (if not acquired locally)

Cage: $150-$250 and up

Travel Cage: $40-$45

Basic Toys and nesting box: $40

Food for older (weaned and adult) flyers:

Henry’s Healthy Pet Blocks for Hi-Protein for flyers: $16 (reoccurring monthly. save $6/month on shipping by purchasing multiple months at a time)

Fresh Veggies: $20 (bought kale/mushrooms specifically for flyer, this will basically be an ongoing negligible cost due to always having fresh vegetable variety in my home and garden)

Worms/Protein: $5.50 for the wax worms, purchased at least bi-weekly.

Wild Foods and branches are easily acquired free by taking a walk outside.

Fabric for cage Floor Covers: Because we don’t want ours flyer’s little feet on nasty wire! If you sew go online to buy fleece fabric or go to Joann’s (use Joann’s coupons and sales, and remnant bins to save money).

Purchased custom-made from Auntie MM’s Custom Boutique, look her up on line on Facebook. Pick your material pattern; give her your sizes, excellent workmanship; she makes it all.

Purchased cage gear and accessories:

From Henry’s Healthy Pets-

Cozy cube, $19.99

Bonding pouch, $16.99

Hammock, $18.99

Fringe Boa, $18.99

Jingle Buddy toy, $6.99

Water silo for birds, $1.99 from pet store or glass hamster water tube from Petco or on line, $ 3.99.

Pee Proofing Walls (I bought fabric shower curtains, hooks, and curtain rods): $45

Pee Proofing Floor under cage (I bought an office chair mat): $135

AtticWorx Stealth Wheel 12″ Magnum $42.95 + trim trax: $8.95

Acknowledgements

Thank you to the many people who have contributed, or given me permission to use their material for this book.

Maura Mandrano, of The Squirrel Board (www.thesquirrelboard) and to its many members for use of pictures and articles.

Joan Baron, of The National Flying Squirrel Association (www.nfsa) and its members for use of pictures and articles.

Judy Call’s family: Lance Call and Lace Rogers, for Judy’s articles and the permission to use them.

Julie M. Rocco

Lauryn W. Fetty

Timothy Hall

Angela Lee

Mark Skulbørstad

Stosh Liszanckie

And to my wonderful family, and pets for waiting on me to finish this book.

I love you all!